After almost two months in Casamance and just a week in Gambia, we are now in the Cape Verde Islands with our good friends from France, the Pérés. We are exploring the Barlevento or windward Islands which are in the north of the archipelago.
We spent most of our time in Casamance in the mangrove creeks in the Basse Casamance region. We visited some of the many traditional villages on the « islands » formed by these creeks where we felt very welcome. The people there are Diolas who also live in Gambia and Guinea Bissau. Most of them are Catholic who live peacefully with the Muslim minority, although they strongly continue their colourful animist traditions. They live simply in mud huts with thatched roofs, without running water or electricity, except for a few solar panels to recharge their mobile phones ! …and for lighting a few huts and public places. They are excellent fisherman, grow rice, and seem to live largely without money. There are no cars, they travel by dugout or larger canoes. Hospitality is part of their culture and we felt at home there.
We would wake up early in the morning to the birds – pelicans, eagles, wading birds, vultures -, and we would watch the activity of the african cows, pigs, goats, ducks, and sometimes big dolphins who come to fish among the mangroves. Then we would watch the daily life unfold along the riverbanks…children swimming, women fetching water from the well which they carry on their heads to wash clothes under the huge plane trees…it’s fascinating and beautiful to watch. Conversation is easy and going for a stroll in the village was always fun.
Despite this hectic life in the village of Niomoune (pronounced new moon), we did find time to continue work on the boat. Then we moved two creeks away to the Eringa campement (small resort), owned and run by Yves and Soso. There we moved off Wanda for ten days so we could paint her interior. In the daytime the boys stayed at the campement and played with other kids from the local villages while Martin and Caro worked on the boat. We got together at lunchtimes over delicious Senegalese meals prepared by Soso, and we passed the evenings on the terrace bar of this spectacular resort. Like at Niomoune, we were easily and naturally welcomed by the local people who showed us how they harvest palm wine directly tapped off the trees – with tastings of course ! At Eringa we were able to live in Senegalese style in mud huts, under mousquito nets, washing in the outdoor shower with water we took from the well … It was a brilliant experience and we felt safe and comfortable in the excellent company of our hosts. We recommend this place and here is their website : http://propoze.free.fr/eringa.htm
Then we were invited back to Niomoune for celebrations of initiation rites which take place only every 25 years. The initiation is the rite of passage from boyhood to manhood after circumcision, which concerns boys and men of various ages since it takes place only very rarely. They stay for a month or so in a sacred forest where they are trained and educated by the elders in the traditions of their people, all in strict secrecy. It’s a very important moment in the life of a Diola man who comes home to his village from wherever he lives when it is his time to be initiated, often with friends and family as supporters. So the population of the village exploded from 2000 to 20 000, maybe even more. The preparations and logistics were impressive and we were lucky to witness lots of dancing and rituals before all foreigners had to leave on the day they entered the sacred forest.
Then we sailed to Banjul in Gambia to reprovision the boat for our trip to the Cape Verdes. In Banjul port we anchored through an impressive storm – no real damage but stuff moved that had never moved at sea ! Then we stayed at Oyster Creek which we loved for its laid-back and friendly atmosphere. For other boats : the formalities were quick and easy and provisions and diesel were cheaper than in Senegal. We went to visit the Sacred Crocodile Pool which was astonishing because there were these 2 metre long Nile crocodiles lounging around free in a park, and we could even touch them – check out our photos.
This little week in Gambia really made us want to return after the Cape Verdes, we will see, it’s not yet decided…
5 comments
Judy Knoche says:
12 August 2010 at 22:45 (UTC 0 )
Hello from NZ
Caro, you don’t look a day over 21.
All that traveling must agree with you. We are now Great grandparents to a little girl called Olivia and again in October, don’t know her name yet. Walter is 70 now so he can expect all that
We spent 5 months overseas from Nov 2009 to May 2010 some in London and France but mostly 3 months in Holland where we exchanged a house with a Dutch couple. I guess you have heard we saw Ellyn and Rob a couple of times and met her parents. Although it was snow and ice (winter) we enjoyed it all. I didn’t have a medical crisis this time so it proves I can travel without a drama Next May we hope to stay in Ireland in my cousins house in Tipperary for 3 months and do some travel from there. We plan to go to Budapest, first always a hankering of mine.
Great to catch up with your travels, we are quite envious
Love to Martin and the boys
Judy and Walter
isabelle says:
13 August 2010 at 07:23 (UTC 0 )
Salut Caro !
Ton récit sur le parcourt depuis le sénégal est magnifique, et je vous envie beaucoup de vivre ça ! On pense à vous, gros bisous,
Isa.
raffi says:
14 August 2010 at 17:23 (UTC 0 )
chers amis,
votre voyage est vraiment passionnant !
j’ai toujours le grand plaisir de vous lire et de voir les belles images de votre vie quotidienne et extraordinaire.
pour vous donner quelques nouvelles de “pharo ” je commence par Seb, il est parti début juillet pour Malta, il s’occupe de la partie moteurs d’un grand voilier en bois classique construit à Dubai. Une fois le bateau complété, Seb en deviendra le skipper ou le chef mécanicien, c’est encore à voir . Pour le moment le commandant est Estelle, avec qui il avait deja navigué en 2008 en Croatie.
Ensuite Dodo que pour la première fois travail tous les jours comme livreur de sushi à Port Grimaud, il aime son travail parce que ça ne lui prend pas trop de temps (3 heures par jour, de 20h00 à 23h00) et sa paie est bonne.
Titude passe agréablement son temps de vacances avec sa sœur Bea, elles ne font plus autant de bêtises , l’age leur a donné la sagesse.
Pour finir avec mes nouvelles, je passes mes journées de travail dans le golfe de st tropez comme chaque année, le reste du temps je profite de la compagnie de ma famille… on boit du rosé bien frais et on profite des bon petits repas préparés par ma mère.
en attendent vos prochaines aventures je vous embrasse fort
xxraffi
isa et jean claude says:
17 August 2010 at 15:26 (UTC 0 )
superbes photos,nous voyageons toujours avec vous ,gros bisous
Famille Péré says:
29 August 2010 at 14:58 (UTC 0 )
Super ce voyage au Sénégal!
On est très heureux d’avoir partagé un petit bout de votre aventure au Cap Vert…merci encore nos amis pour votre accueil et votre amitié.
A très bientot pour vous lire et qui sait …pour d’autres périples à vivre ensemble.
On vous embrasse bien fort.
Famille Péré