We are now in Dakar, Senegal, but we wanted to tell you about our little adventure in the Sahara.
Dakhla is on a sandy peninsula which extends 40 km from the coast. On one side the Atlantic and on the other side a lagoon, astonishing in its beauty. Unfortunately we couldn’t get permission to enter the lagoon on Wanda; we had to do the 25km by taxi. We were at anchor in the fishing port two or three kilometers from town. We really enjoyed our stay in Dakhla where we met some very nice people and had an excellent time with Erika, Martin’s mother who was visiting us. We made it to the festival Sea and Desert with camel races, Fantasia horse demonstrations, and where Max-Martin was invited to play football in the stadium in front of thousands of people. And his team won second place! The nights were musical – we were lucky enough to see Youssou N’Dour (a sneak preview of Senegal). I even got to see a wedding – and yes, the groom presented the bride’s parents with two camels!
And then we stayed in the desert for two unforgettable days and a night…it all started at my dentist’s with a chance encounter with Sidi, a Saharan who organises trips into the desert from his auberge beside the lagoon. Finally, we’re off in a four-wheel drive more than 200km into the interior with a nice trio acting as guide, chauffeur, cook and hunter…the road is good and sealed at first, and scenic from the start with views onto the lagoon and then desert landscape with camels crossing the road. Our guides also are exotic, we are filled with anticipation…suddenly we are off-roading, it’s fun! The landscape looks very flat but it’s actually quite bumpy up close. We stop for lunch at an ancient acacia forest which isn’t much next to a forest of oaks or kauris but it was perfect to be in the shade for a good meal cooked on a camp fire. We eat, we explore, we relax. Then we’re off, next stop the dunes. So amazing, have a look at the photos! But the problem with dunes is that they move – did you know that? The result is that in the desert there aren’t any stable landmarks so our guides spend the rest of the afternoon looking for our campsite. This means that we spot a tent or two, race towards them, our guides seem to ask directions (obviously we don’t understand anything) and then we keep on going in circles, or so we think. Sometimes we ask a camel-herd who gestures and points and off we go again. Actually it was fun, I’ve been lost in much nastier places…we start to get just a little bit concerned when, just before sundown, we arrive at a little tent perfectly situated between some particularly gorgeous dunes. So we run to play on them before the sun sets – again look at the photos! By the time we get back there is another tent pitched and our friends are preparing the meal. Max and Jack are happy in front of the fire and we watch the meal being prepared – Sahara bread and camel stew. The bread is cooked in a special way – they heat up the sand and place the bread in it, and then it cooks under a lid covered in coals. Then they diligently scrape off all the sand. Then they rip it up and soak it in the stew. It tastes wonderful. We share the meal with three camel herdsmen who arrive at 10pm with their 250 camels! The tent is in fact theirs which they share with our guides and the second tent is for us. Can you imagine the atmosphere during this wonderful meal in front of the campfire under a dome of stars?
In the morning we get up and really see that we are surrounded by camels. It’s astonishing. With breakfast we drink our coffee with camel milk. It’s very good. Then we break camp and explore the desert a bit – we visit historic places and find flint stones that may even have been sharpened into arrow heads, you never know. ..and also some nice fossils. We stop occasionally to drink tea and play dominos with the local nomads (if that makes sense). Some good memories. After another great meal under the acacias we start back towards Dakhla. But the adventure’s not over yet…our guides spot two goats under a tree and we’re after them with the four-wheel-drive, the goats running ahead. Then, to our great surprise, someone jumps out of the moving car and chases after the goats and actually manages to catch the mother by her leg. Then the others help to herd the young one until they catch it too, and then hop – two goats in the back of the car with Max and the hunter. We were very amazed. Then off to find a farm, still in the desert, where they could sell them before taking us back to the port. We return to Wanda tired, sandblasted and happy.
Highlights:
Jack: My favourite time was the evening in front of the camp fire because we had great fun and the meal was delicious.
Max-Martin: The first sand dunes because I had lots of fun running up and down them.
Caro: The camel-shaped silhouette blocking out the stars which seemed to come down to our feet.
Erika: The moment I walked out of the tent that night into the immense sky scattered with stars and the ever so long lasting comet sliding slowly to the horizon. Impressive. An impression to give us an idea how little we are and how lucky we are to experience this.
Martin: Sitting under the acacias eating couscous with camel meat.
6 comments
Grossmutter says:
10 May 2010 at 11:34 (UTC 0 )
Hello there in Senegal, you four “Weltenbummler”.
Just got your Dakhla report. This brings back so many nice memories. In your report there is one charming mistake, which reads:
We share the meal with three camel herds—
Would it not rather be three herdsmen of 250 camels?? i In fact, I know that this was the case, because I was there and heard the camel-herds moan almost alnight, but not the herdsmen!! What a nice joke.
By the way, I cannot open the photographs. I just talked to Peter and he said that he also has a problem opening the album. I write this on purpose in this message, just in case others encounter the same problem. Maybe, in your next blog please explain on how to open the photos. Thanks.
Otherwise, I am just happy to hear that you are proceeding well. The boys sounded really good on the phone the other day.
Keep on doing so well.
Love
Grossmuetter Mami/Erika
info says:
10 May 2010 at 14:08 (UTC 0 )
Hi Erika
Thanks for pointing out the camelherd problem, I fixed it!
About the photos, you should just click on the link in blue under the message on the home page. Tell me if that doesn’t work.
love, Caro
Luika & Family says:
10 May 2010 at 17:44 (UTC 0 )
So nice to read this desert adventure! Of course, I have already heard the story from Erika and saw the pictures, but what an exciting trip! And all this beauty is to find on the same planet, even if it seams galaxies away!
Hope you are all well and get to enjoy Senegal.
Hey, and what?!? You saw Youssou N’Dour live? That must have been a great moment!Lucky you!
So, enjoy all the great moments and adventures!
Bisous to all of you!
Liam says:
12 May 2010 at 13:07 (UTC 0 )
Hey guys ! hope your all well.., I have the dvds ready to send. I should have done it 6 months ago but I saw Kieran and he reminded me. can you resend me the address and ill post them ASAP
Talk soon
Liam
Pascal et giovanny says:
19 May 2010 at 19:56 (UTC 0 )
Coucou les amis vous nous manquez et je regarde avec admiration votre voyage.
Pascal et giovanny
Ellyn says:
22 May 2010 at 16:10 (UTC 0 )
Hi everyone! Loved the post and the pictures.